Ditty Bag, Candy Bag or Purse from Damaged Textiles

A Ditty Bag can be any size or style and is used to carry or store a variety of items in. This style can also be used for an old fashion reticule for everyday or to use for reenactors. They make great gift bags that will become a cherished keepsake. If you walk to work or weather different shoes during bad weather, you might want to make one of these in a size that will work for you to hold her work or dress shoes.

Supplies:

1. Damaged textile or fabric of your choice for outside of bag.
2. Fabric for lining of bag
3. 2 yds of ½” ribbon or 2 yrds of cording
4. Coordinating thread.
5. Trim for top, either coordinating piping or vintage crochet trim or lace.

This project will take from 1 ½ to 3 hrs.

If you are new to sewing don't let the length of the instructions overwhelm you. If you take it slow and step by step you will be able to make one of these in no time. And the 2nd one always goes quicker!

Lets Get Started

For this project I’m going to be using the puppies. The machine crochet edging on this dresser scarf is hand sewn on, so I am going to remove it and use it for the trim at the top of the bag.

Next I’m going to trim off the original hem. If they were left it would make the seams of the bag too bulky!

Now I have the front of my Ditty Bag. You can do the same with a crochet edged dresser scarf, but you will have to cut the crochet trim away to leave just the design that you want to work with. Before cutting, make sure you carefully inspect the area that will be the front of the bag for any hidden damage. You don’t want to have a finished bag only to find out that you had missed a spot of damage.

The next step is to determine how long bag is going to be. If you already know what you are going to put inside then you can measure to accommodate it. If you don’t, then you can let the design and width guide you. You will need at least 1" extra at top to turn under and 1" for the drawstring channel.

Next I'm using the leftover cotton pillowcases from my “Hanger Cover” project for both the back and the lining.

Cut a back the same size as the front.

Next you want to place the 2 pieces together with the right sides on the inside. Mark both sides at 2” & 2 ¾” for ribbon strings or 2” & 3” for cord ties from the top.

Now you are ready to sew both sides and bottom. You are going to skip over the areas that you marked near the top.

Be sure and backstitch when you start and stop, at each point and at the 2 bottom corners. This will reinforce all of the stress points.

The open area on both sides will be the opening for the drawstrings to pass through. Press open the side seams and sew the seams down around the opening. This forms a buttonhole. Be sure and backstitch at the start, at the end and when you turn to go back up the other side.

Next trim off the bottom corners, but not too close. You really don't want to trim your seams too close as it may cause problems when you wash the finished bag (I learned from experience).

You can use a serger or finish the seams with a zig zag stitch if you want to trim the seams down. It really isn't necessary unless you think the bag will get a lot of use or you will be hauling heavy stuff in it!

LINING YOUR BAG

Next cut your lining. Since I’m using the top part of a cotton pillowcase, 2 of my seams are already sewn.

If you are using fabric leave 1" on both sides and the bottom. You want to make absolutely sure that your lining is NOT smaller then the bag itself. If it is, it will cause problems when creating the drawstring channel.

Sew 3 seams of the lining, both sides and the bottom. (No openings for the drawstrings).

Once the lining is sewn, leave it turned wrong side out and slip it inside of the bag. This way all of the seams are on the inside and none are exposed.

MAKING THE DRAWSTRING CHANNEL

Make sure that the lining is all the way to the bottom of the bag and smooth out any wrinkles. The next step is to sew the drawstring channel. Position the presser foot at the bottom of one of the open slits on the sides and sewing slowly so that you will stay on target, sew around the bag, hitting the opposite slit at the bottom too.

Repeat for the top of the channel

Now take the bag to your ironing board and fold down the outside top so that it is out of the way. Fold over the top of the lining so that it will be in between the 2 pieces. Then unfold the top of the outside and fold under so it too is in between the lining and the bag.

This is where you apply what ever trim you have decided on. If you are going to use cording, then you insert it and pin it in place. Then sew using a zipper foot to sew it through all layers.

For this bag I am going to reuse the machine crochet that I removed from this dresser scarf.

If you are really good at sewing you can machine stitch all 3 layers together, but I decided to hand stitch them instead. It is important that you keep the outside and lining edges aligned. For hand stitching I am using a simple over lock stitch.

Once the top edge is finished you can insert your drawstrings. Cut the 2 yds of ribbon or cording in half and insert a pin at one end of one of them. Start at one side and work the ribbon all of the way around so that it exits the same slit that it started in. Tie the 2 ends together in a knot. Repeat with the other ribbon starting in the opposite slit.

Here are some suggestions based on the ditty bags pictures above, starting at the top.

1. Lilac embroidered dresser scarf, variegate crochet trim and deep purple ribbons.


2. Mauve linen dishtowel used for front and back, white roses from a damaged doily appliquéd on the front and back. Trimmed below the drawstring channel with white crochet trim and the top edged was trimmed with white piping. White cording was used for the draw strings.


3. Next is a small white cotton damask bag with very wide filet crochet sewn to the top edge, the strings are pulled through openings in the crochet.


4. Pink carnations dresser scarf trimmed both at the top and bottom edge with pink piping and pink ribbon drawstrings were used.


5. The pansy bag was a damaged pillowcase. The crochet edge is original and not removed from the pillowcase. The backing of this bag is the back of the pillowcase and the crochet edge on the bottom was left intact. A top stitched line was sewn through the front and back directly above the crochet, to form the bottom seam. More of the same crochet trim was added to the top edge and purple ribbons were used for the dawstrings.


6. The Kitten bag was a dresser scarf and the top was edged with pink piping and purple ribbons were used for the drawstrings.


7. Last is vintage poinsettia fabric, the lining is unbleached muslin, red piping and red ribbons for decoration.

I hope you enjoy making this project as much as I enjoyed sharing it with you. If you have any questions, please feel free to post them here and I will try and answer them.

Hanger Cover From Vintage Pillow Cases

This is a wonderful way to use those single or damaged vintage pillowcases. You can enjoy the beautiful embroidery and crochet work and use them for a very practical purpose. How often have you stored your winter or summer wardrobe only to get it out to wear and find the shoulders have dust on them. Before you can wear them again, you have to send them to the drycleaners or rewash them. These neat little hanger covers will eliminate this problem in just 10 minutes. These are very simple to make.


First make a pattern by laying a hanger on a piece of paper with the neck at one of the short edges. Be sure and use a large hanger. Draw around it. It should look like this.




Cut pattern out.




Now for the fun part! Pick out a great pillowcase to use. Some of the things that you want to consider are to make sure that the pillowcase is not too worn from repeated washings and make sure the area you want to use is clean and stain free.



Fold the pillowcase long ways.



Lay your pattern on top of the area that you want to use. Pillow cases do vary in width so you need to watch how you are laying it out. The shoulder curve should always be at the edge. The neck doesn't have to be very big.

You can make your finished cover any length. Position the pattern where you want the shoulders to be.




Now cut around the top of the pattern. Do not cut down the short side. You do want to make a small curve, but your sewing will finish the curve.




Turn the cut piece wrong side out and lay it on the ironing board. You will first sew the neck edges. Turn down one side of the neck ¼" then turn again. Pin.





Next turn down the other side and pin.




Sew both edges.




Now put the edges together. At this point your neck is going to be too big. That is OK because when you sew the shoulder seams you will take up some of that space. Pin the shoulder seams together.




Sew the shoulder seams making a nice curve on the short sides.




Trim your seams, turn right side out and press for a nice crisp seam.





These neat little dust protectors can be made out of many different things. Use damaged printed tablecloths or vintage fabrics and edge with bits of crochet work. Just use your imagination!

Copyright Anitas_Stuff January 2003

Flower Pot Pincushion

Flower Pot Pincushion

Step 1: Spray paint the flower pot. After the paint has dried, spray a clear coat sealer over the pot to protect the paint from chipping and to give it a porcelain shine.

Step 2: When the paint and sealer are completely dry, then apply the decals according to directions on the package. Wait until the decals are completely dry and then spray a little more sealer over top the decals. This will protect the decals from damage and coming off.
When the paint and sealer are completely dry, then apply the decals according to directions on the package. Wait until the decals are completely dry and then spray a little more sealer over top the decals. This will protect the decals from damage and coming off.

Step 3: Cut the styrofoam ball to fit snugly in the top of your pot. Then place your styrofoam piece on your fabric and cut around, leaving about an inch all the way 'round. Take your needle and thread and stitch a running stitch all the way around the edge. Place your styrofoam piece inside your fabric, tighten your thread and tie it off snugly.

Cut the styrofoam ball to fit snugly in the top of your pot. Then place your styrofoam piece on your fabric and cut around, leaving about an inch all the way 'round. Take your needle and thread and stitch a running stitch all the way around the edge. Place your styrofoam piece inside your fabric, tighten your thread and tie it off snugly.

Step 4: Assembling the pincushion. Decorate the pot with bits of lace and trim so that it is pleasing to you. Next, take your fabric covered styrofoam piece and glue it securely in the pot.

Then, glue the flowerpot to the watering tray to insure the pincushion doesn't easily knock over.

What am I doing?

My goal for this blog is to post some of my creations using vintage textiles and linens. As a result, I wont be posting a ton of projects, but will from time to time add a new project.

Please let me know if you like a certain project and would like to see similar ones in the future.

I love creating new projects, but once I've created something I'm ready to move on to something else as I don't enjoy the assembly line type of sewing.

So I hope my instructions and examples will help you start your own creative in what can be done with damage vintage textiles.